The spacious artwork deco, pastel bi-level eating room is already popping up on Instagram due to its beautiful design, but the food by James Tracey is not any slouch either. Midtown menu musts like steaks, roast prime rib carved tableside, and a uncooked bar are there, but so are barbecued prawns with grits, Japanese eggplant with carrot harissa, and porcini lasagna with black truffle to keep things attention-grabbing. There’s a nice eating modern Korean delicacies renaissance in NYC proper now, and Oiji Mi encapsulates the trend perfectly. The beautiful eating room behind a showpiece bar at the entrance is the perfect setting for the flowery five-course pre-fixe that showcases creative takes on classics. Current menu highlights include a bo ssam with pork stomach, oysters on the half shell and spicy mustard mignonette, chili lobster ramyun, and black bass and manila clams in a seafood broth.

Since China reopened its borders …